Your Mods to GMMK PRO and results

Just wanted to see what modification folks have done to their GMMK PRO and what the results were.

My modifications so far include: M2X10mm screws leaving about 1 mm gap between the top and bottom housing which I found made the biggest difference so far. My Glorious Panda switches feel and sound a lot better compared to when everything was tightly screwed together. They have this kind of satisfying slapping sound now and nice bottom out feel. All screws are installed on the plate and PCB.

I also have Stupidfish foam in the case and not using the foam between the plate and the PCB. Honestly, I find that it doesn’t make that big a difference. I want to keep foam in the case to provide support when swapping switches. I’ve already broke one hotsway socket and pretty sure its because there was a lack of support when pushing in switches so figure its best to keep the case foam in.

I also have the D65 gaskets which should arrive tomorrow and FR4 plate which is probably still a couple weeks out. From what I’ve seen on youtube, the D65 gaskets are big upgrade and should provide some additional flex. I’m hoping to provide some flex that doesn’t cause the PCB to bend but rather have the PCB and plate flex together downwards as opposed to bending.

Look forward to seeing what others have done.

1 Like

I put an aftermarket FR4 plate from AVX on my board and it’s amazing. I did take out all of the screws that held the PCB to the plate, and it has reduced the ping and slightly softened feel. The main benefit was the sound. Now it doesn’t have that crappy aluminum sound like the Drop ALT and CTRL. I think Glorious should offer more aftermarket plates and make the gaskets a bit softer.

3 Likes

Other than upgrading to D65 gaskets, I have only done PE mod. Honestly if you’re going for sound rather than flex, that’s the only mod you’ll need. My GMMK Pro now sounds like a Jelly and I love it. The sound is super creamy and poppy (switch-dependent) and the sound profile really opens up; gone is the hollowness and tinny sound that plagues this board. In terms of what you stated regarding the D65 gaskets, can confirm that they are a must. I tried the triple stock gaskets mod, but one layer of D65 gasket trumps those 3 layers of stock gaskets in terms of flex. However, due to the fact that I went purely for sound, the board still has a stiff typing experience as I’m sure you are aware of as well. I know that the brass plate with the PE mod will make it sound thoccier than the alu/pc plate but I haven’t gotten around to ordering the brass plate. I’d imagine FR4 also sounds pretty good with the PE mod, as it’ll give it those deeper thoccs.

2 Likes

So currently i’m waiting for my FR4 plate, I have a stupid fish 3m foam to make a semi float mod, I also have durocks v2 using plumbers mod lubed with krytox205g0, balanced the wires using Boba U4T with a clear top housing for RGB.

3 Likes

So i just installed the D65 gaskets which is noticeably much better than the stock gaskets. I wanted to see if it helped with the stiffness. Without the top housing, it looked the upgraded gaskets improved the stiffness as I was able to see entire plate and PCB were flexing together going up and down, however, once I screwed on the top housing it was stiff again. It would probably help if I removed the case foam but I’m leaving it to provide the hot swap with some support when inserting switches.

Now just waiting for the FR4 plate. I doubt it will improve the stiffness unless I remove the case foam. I’ll report back once I’ve made the installation.

I did see a good youtube video of someone talking a saw to their aluminum plate to provide flex. The results were actually really impressive.

2 Likes

Just installed the FR4 plate and personally I think it sounds better than PC plate with my Alpacas but it did nothing for adding flex as I suspected.

Maybe I will take a saw to my aluminum and PC plate to allow for more flex but for now I’m satisfied.

Edit: loosening the screws and leaving 1-2mm gap between the top and bottom housing provides the noticeable flex with the FR4 plate. The whole plate and PCB also appears to move together as well. I’m using M2X10mm so I should be good and hopefully the screws don’t fall out. Definitely a softer typing experience so its worth it.

I think I’m finally finished modding this keyboard.

2 Likes

Using small 6 x 2 mm rubber O-rings between the two halves of the case (screws going through them) was my way of adding a friction free gap between them with no need for new screws (and without screws falling down or breaking). You can see my whole review+mods video here: GMMK Pro: The ultimate guide (in-depth review + modding tutorial) - YouTube

1 Like

Yes I watched your video awhile back. I don’t have any O-rings at the moment but will definitely give it a shot. Thanks for the reminder!

P.S. I subscribed to your channel many months ago. Love the amount depth and detail you get into.

2 Likes

Wow, thanks man!!! :slight_smile:
I’m now starting a “collection” of different GMMK Pro mods (tape, PE foam, PC/FR4 plates, etc) and might do a follow up video on them --plus a QMK/VIA flashing guide as well, since there is so much interest in this topic.

3 Likes

plumbers mod? never heard of that before. could you elaborate on it?

1 Like

It’s basically using plumbers tape to stabilize the wires. Here is a video that explains about it fully. Plumbers Mod in detail - YouTube

1 Like

avxworks FR4 plate with 3mm StupidFish board and switch foam and the gasket suggestions StupidFish had seemed to make the GMMK pro sound and feel perfect to me.

2 Likes