Show off your GMMK PRO Builds

been looking into getting the stupidfish foams how do they affect sound on the GMMK pro? so far the nicestchange Ive found was tape modding the case without foam and not tape modding the PCB and I got a slightly deeper more poppy sound.

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I really wanted to dampen things with this build. It’s denser than the stock foam, so it quiets things down a lot. Tried using just masking tape and it wasn’t what I was looking for with this setup, but does sound good with Panda switches.

Finally got my Gold knob to finish off this setup:

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Came back from vacation and my GG keycap plus my GLxA apparel was waiting for me!

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LOVE that keycap set! :heart_eyes::drooling_face:

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@MannyM15 that is a beautiful build! The guild cap pops against the key caps really nice…

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Here’s my E-White GMMK Pro build.

  • GMMK Pro, White Ice (barebones)
  • Stock aluminum plate
  • Lubed Glorious Pandas
  • GSV2 Stabilizers (lubed)
  • Arctic White GPBT Keycaps
  • E-White top frame
  • E-White rotary knob
  • Stupid Fish GMMK Pro plate and case foam
  • Glorious Guild artisan keycap

I set it to a solid, soft blue-white backlight (think 6700K “daylight” bulb color) and it looks great. The sound of this thing is amazing too. It’s absolutely my favorite keyboard right now.

I don’t normally use it on this desk, but the white really pops on this mat:

Here it is in “Glorious RGB” mode before my artisan cap came in:

FWIW, the Arctic White GPBT caps are the only ones that I found that match the E-White top frame. I compared a few other “white” keycaps and the top frame makes almost all of them look somewhere between eggshell and cream.

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Whoaaa…this might be my favorite ive seeen so far :heart_eyes: :fire: :fire: :fire:

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Hope you like it.
Mods: PC Plate, lubed and filmed Ink Black V2, Drop MT3 keycaps, Stupidfish 3mm PCB & Case Foam, double tape mod, o-rings on screws, an extra layer of gaskets top and bottom, and of course yellow top case and yellow rotary knob

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I have not tried tape modding the case - what is it like?

Check out my post above.
I double tape modded PCB, stupidfish 3mm pcb and case foam. It sounds more consistent, and somewhat deep, and a little bassy with my PC plate, lubed and filmed ink black v2, and drop PBT MT3 keycaps.

You might like the stupidfish foams, as it makes the board sound a little more consistent.

Interested to hear your mods.

With it alone it just helps kill a little bit if case resonance.

Well case resonance can be combatted with a combination of mods. The stupid fish foams in my experience only improves the consistency of audio signature marginally

Some tips to reduce case resonance:
For clacky sound: use thicker foam
For thocky sound: use thinner foam
Consider poly fill
Use higher quality PBT keycaps
Consider PC plate for slightly lower pitcher sound signature.
Use PE mod to reduce some pinging
Use a rolled up cloth or thicker desk mat under your keyboard (I have a hollow IKEA bamboo table top & I used this method to reduce resonance - a hard table would change the sound signature)

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I use durock stabs on alu and PC plate. They are a tight fit on PC, but my PC plate has not cracked. I am swapping out my PCB. God willing it will not crack. My PC plate is bowed toward the middle though. However, I am not seeing any switch popping issues. I have removed the 2 standoffs.

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Well case resonance can be combatted with a combination of mods. The stupid fish foams in my experience only improves the consistency of audio signature marginally

Some tips to reduce case resonance:
For clacky sound: use thicker foam
For thocky sound: use thinner foam
Consider poly fill
Use higher quality PBT keycaps
Consider PC plate for slightly lower pitcher sound signature.
Use PE mod to reduce some pinging
Use a rolled up cloth or thicker desk mat under your keyboard (I have a hollow IKEA bamboo table top & I used this method to reduce resonance - a hard table would change the sound signature)

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Switch housing, stem length, and keycap thickness can also change the sound.
Keybored did a video recently on his YouTube channel that demonstrates airborne vs structure-borne sound.
Good stuff!

Nice looking/sounding keyboard @chris_december!

I recently swapped out my pc plate, it was bowing in the middle also, though I had lots of switches popping out. Recently swapped in the aluminum plate, no more switches popping out. Preferred the pc plate sound, though I have got the aluminum one sounding pretty nice atm.

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Agreed. The funny thing is the switches all along the edges don’t sit flush on my PC plate. However, a lot of switches to the middle are snug. The PC plate is the sweet spot. Am I right in saying the case needs to be optimized for PC plate?

The issue with the Alu plate is a lot of switches are just stuck. They need some elbow grease to pull them out, at the risk of breaking the top housing.

I have a Rama U80-B coming in next year with PC plate. But I assume the case is designed with PC stock.

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Yes, that’s true.

Thank you. Unfortunately, I just couldn’t get the keyboard to sound natural in video, even with multiple edits. I was just using a gaming mic - HyperX QuadCast.

I was considering getting something like a SHURE SM27. But with all the required gear like soundcard, cloud lifter etc it can get a bit expensive.

I haven’t tried to remove any switches since putting the aluminum plate in, so I don’t know if any are stuck in place or not.

As for the pc plate… I’d like to make it work somehow, as I do like the sound better. However the switches popping out easily when removing keys, and not sitting flush was annoying me. After I loosened the screws that were attaching it to the pcb, more of my switches sat flush and didn’t pop out, however not all of them.

With the aluminum plate there’s no problem for me yet.

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